Ohhh man. I was out at sewers tonight with the mean fighters* waiting for some waves. Wow. There were a few overhead ones that looked huge!!! I got three head high ones. What a blast. It was epic. With a little wind to blow some spray over the curl!!! I love looking down a wave as it crashes and then passes and seeing the water spray over the back of it. It’s beautiful. Coming in was treacherous. It was deep at the stairway! And sloshy. And fun.
*and I mean that as a good thing. You should have to fight to be out there. It’s a right!
Everything has changed. I think this is it. This is as good as it gets. And it’s good! That was the goal, I think. Acceptance of the present. And here I am. It’s present. And good. Ohhh it’s so good. And fun. Like surfing. And cooking. And reading. And, of course, sometimes, sailing. I still don’t know how to fish. Or been to Hawaii. Or Yellowstone. Or Yosemite. Or Death Valley. And I don’t know how to golf. Well, I can hit the ball but I don’t know how the game actually goes.
Be joyful always; pray continually; give thanks in all circumstances, for this is God’s will for you in Christ Jesus.