Lucky to be / big waves are better

Forgiveness begins with gratttitude, and realizing that most often people hurt each other because they don’t have what they need.

Big waves are just better. Wow. They’re good. It’s different. They throw you. It’s heavier. There a lot of force. It’s weird. You’re really pushing against the wave. And the sound!!! After that half second battle to get up, which is all or nothing, you’re standing amidst one of the great powers of nature. And it wants to eat you. But you lighten your feet and start moving around it. There’s rarely enough time or even mental energy to stop and experience it. Pretty much everything goes into watching this thing form and change and trying to ride through it. You can’t see it on land, but if you watch a surfer on a larger wave in the water, you can see that they aren’t looking at anything. Just mesmerized by this big green blue magic mass, shredding up and down its intricacies. It’s like staring a dragon in the face. You aren’t really seeing anything. Just reacting.

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