I don’t know what to do. I guess I could just keep calm, quiet, and cry and exercise and sleep. I had a six pack in the fridge to bring to the boat I’ve been sailing on. I didn’t want to drink it. But yesterday, after seeing my counselor, a beer sure sounded good. Then my neighbor was being rowdy and it was frustrating me so I drank all six. It was fine. I am just very tired today. I played music really loud and sang and grunted. It was kind of fun. I think I need a good friend. Not named Sierra Nevada. He just wasn’t the friend he promised to be. But when I drink, I do get very effective at getting my point across. I need to figure out how to turn up my volume in a more regular, consistent, balanced fashion. But I was under a lot of water. Meaning emotional pain.
I surfed today. My neighbor left out a wave storm for free. I love those things so I snatched it up. And the waves were over head at pleasure point! It was great! And people were pretty relaxed too. I kept out of the way of the short boarders. On one wave, a long boarder stole my wave and then tried to push me off it! So while paddling a accident,y caught his leash and pulled him right off the wave! It was epic. He tried to steal my wave and I literally made him do a backflip off the wave. It was like, yeah right buddy! Then this other guy wouldn’t get out of my way, he went left, then right, and I couldn’t help but ram him. I said sorry. Then this little boy lost his board on a big set so I got it and delivered it to him. Then this teenage girl tried to fight one of the grown women. The lady started yelling at her, and the girl calmly said keep out of the line. Keep out of the line. It was interesting. She had been a little aggressive, but she was clam,y and plainly staying her case. Then she paddled in. I wondered if something else was going on in her life. Then on a big set, everyone was inside and in this one mans way. He paddled back out to the lineup screaming, you guys, stay out of my way! How am I supposed to surf out here if you’re all in the way!!! Haha! Exactly!
Then an older guy started yelling back at him. Bro. So he called him an old fart. The older guy said, yeah, you’re just as old as me. And I realized, he was right! The other guy just acted like a young surfer!
Next, Jesus came walking out. No just kidding. But seriously. Then, I found a hat in the white water! So I wore it! Free surf board, free hat. It’s all about the gear.
I need to commit to not being angry, and instead, help people. With confidence.