Before I die

There’s the plan. And then there’s the execution. It didn’t exactly go as planned. But it got done.

This is not normal. This is uncomfortable. I don’t know if like this. Ouch. It makes sense now.

I went surfing today. Wave storm at the point. Hoo wee there were some big uns. I had fun. I launched off one. Otherwise did a lot of swimming. Which is pretty fun too. But that instant when you drop off the board plunging feet first into the water and you don’t hit bottom, it’s just disconcerting. Hitting bottom definitely doesn’t feel good either. But when there’s nothing down there, and it’s black, and you get swooshed around, oh I hate that! Then you feel your head might be in air and you suck in a breathe hoping it’s actually air. At first when you realize you’re under and you don’t know which way is up, you panic for a split second, then realize, I need to conserve air. Relax. Hold it in. It just doesn’t feel good. I couldn’t imagine Mavericks. One second, you’re on your board, paddling, trying to put paddle and strong arm the other guys, the next second, the wave is stomping your lungs and your existence essentially matters nothing. It’s just different.

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